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Air Diaphragm vs. 12 Volt vs. Gas Powered Pump Systems??

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You can also get the flange adapters at nearly any good plumbing supply house if there is one local to you. Don't forget bolts, washers and nuts...I use stainless with thread lock nuts. Only thing yo be VERY aware of is if yiu run your spray line out of the pump direct without a reel. In that case you MUST strain relief the hose or you run the risk of breaking the PCav flange or worse, the pump manifold. Then you get the joy ofhaving an SH fountain on your truck as you scramble to get off the roof to turn the valve off.

Also,read the article I posted about what else you need for an air pump setup...like a water separator. And an air filter.

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Also, if buying a plastic flange made from PVC, be sure and get the schedule 80 vs the schedule 40. Sure, it costs a little more, but it is worth it.Kevin, what material are your flange gaskets made from ?

I use Viton gaskets and 316 Stainless flanges which now need changing because they eroded after a season. Got them before I was using a reel and needed the strength.

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I use Viton gaskets and 316 Stainless flanges which now need changing because they eroded after a season. Got them before I was using a reel and needed the strength.

I used to be very confused about the different grades of Stailess Steel, for roof cleaning use.

But I found out that 316 stainless is better then 304, etc, etc.

It is interesting that BRONZE has equal if not actually better SH resistance.

Neither are really good, both are only rated a "C". But when it is really thick Stainless, no worries.

Brass really sucks for our use, and so does NYLON :(

Never ever use NYLON, it will weaken and snap on you w/o warning.

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Ok here is what I think I need to get. I figure I will get a spare flange and a couple sapre gaskets. Do these look right? With free shipping it is cheaper if I get everything at Amazon even though  the gaskets are lots cheaper at another place plus they will ship faster. I got a notice my pump has shipped already.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FMJQ14/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0075EBFXK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

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Yes, it weighs nearly 25 lbs, and it is large. Not quite as large as what Kevin and some others are using, with their huge 1 inch Hastelloy Pumps, that weigh nearly 65 lbs.

You were wise to listen to us Clayton, and jump when we said to jump. You would be surprised at how many come here, pay money to join to get advice, and then fight us when we try to help them :(

Often, we see these Lost Souls on some Facebook Group, or a forum run by a Vendor, only suggesting the stuff they sell.

I mean, why pay for our advice and guidance, and then not accept it ?

It is nice driving around looking at commercial buildings and really steep roofs knowing I will have the firepower to tackle them. I am very glad I jumped when I did! I would say lots of people really only want to hear their own opinions echoed by you because unfortunately they are more interested in being right than being properly prepared and knowledgeable. 

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Yup, those are correct. You will need one for the intake and one for the outflow, two corresponding gaskets and Nuts, bolts, flat washers and gaskets. I like to coat the hardware in plastic dip to keep them from rusting...or at least deter it.

 

I suggest you run 1/2" air lines to the pump as there are less parasitic losses and they aren't really any more expensive.

 

You will want a water trap since the more air you run thru, the more water it creates and this does not such great things to the air section...in wetter cooler conditions you can clog some pumps with ice. The Graco pumps are pretty good with dealing with this but for longevity, a water trap is cheap insurance. One thing to know is that in order for a water trap to be most effective, you need a reasonably long length of air hose to run to it. This is so the moisture has a chance to condense out a bit. 10' is the bare minimum, 20' is better. One guy runs his in a coil thru his fresh water rinse tank to cool it down. 

 

This is what I use..

 

http://www.amazon.com/SMC-AMG350C-N04C-Water-Separator-Drain/dp/B009VQ0GP8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422229338&sr=8-5&keywords=smc+water+separator

 

Most bigger compressors don't come with a regulator and filter...so best to get a combined one. I use a 1/2" Coilhose Filter/Regulator combo and upgraded to an oil filled gauge. It has worked flawlessly. For God's sake, avoid the Harbor Freight version like the plague. They fail miserably. 

 

If your compressor DOES come with a regulator then you will want to purchase an inline air filter which will go after the water separator. The air section can not handle a lot of dirt, it wants clean air. 

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You can also get the flange adapters at nearly any good plumbing supply house if there is one local to you. Don't forget bolts and buys...I use stainless with thread lock nuts. Only thing yo be VERY aware of is if yiu run your spray line out of the pump direct without a reel. In that case you MUST strain relief the hose or you run the risk of breaking the PCav flange or worse, the pump manifold. Then you get the joy ofhaving an SH fountain on your truck as you scramble to get off the roof to turn the valve off.

Also,read the article I posted about what else you need for an air pump setup...like a water separator. And an air filter.

Thanks, I have read it and will take your advice. I am thinking of talking to Lori at PWP to make sure I order all the fittings, filters, separators, big hose, reel, etc that I need. I also think I may use polypropylene 55 gallon barrels as my chem and mix tanks. I can get them for $20 each and they are A rated for SH. Unless you or Chris don't like these ideas that is my plan for now. 

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Thanks, I have read it and will take your advice. I am thinking of talking to Lori at PWP to make sure I order all the fittings, filters, separators, big hose, reel, etc that I need. I also think I may use polypropylene 55 gallon barrels as my chem and mix tanks. I can get them for $20 each and they are A rated for SH. Unless you or Chris don't like these ideas that is my plan for now.

Lori is good people, when you can get hold of her :)

Use no smaller then 5/8 hose, and Kevin has hose reels he sells that are better then any other you can buy.

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Yup, those are correct. You will need one for the intake and one for the outflow, two corresponding gaskets and Nuts, bolts, flat washers and gaskets. I like to coat the hardware in plastic dip to keep them from rusting...or at least deter it.

 

I suggest you run 1/2" air lines to the pump as there are less parasitic losses and they aren't really any more expensive.

 

You will want a water trap since the more air you run thru, the more water it creates and this does not such great things to the air section...in wetter cooler conditions you can clog some pumps with ice. The Graco pumps are pretty good with dealing with this but for longevity, a water trap is cheap insurance. One thing to know is that in order for a water trap to be most effective, you need a reasonably long length of air hose to run to it. This is so the moisture has a chance to condense out a bit. 10' is the bare minimum, 20' is better. One guy runs his in a coil thru his fresh water rinse tank to cool it down. 

 

This is what I use..

 

http://www.amazon.com/SMC-AMG350C-N04C-Water-Separator-Drain/dp/B009VQ0GP8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422229338&sr=8-5&keywords=smc+water+separator

 

Most bigger compressors don't come with a regulator and filter...so best to get a combined one. I use a 1/2" Coilhose Filter/Regulator combo and upgraded to an oil filled gauge. It has worked flawlessly. For God's sake, avoid the Harbor Freight version like the plague. They fail miserably. 

 

If your compressor DOES come with a regulator then you will want to purchase an inline air filter which will go after the water separator. The air section can not handle a lot of dirt, it wants clean air. 

Is this the 1/2" Coilhose Filter/Regulator combo?

 

http://www.sjindsupply.com/coilhosefrcombo.html

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Lori is good people, when you can get hold of her :)

Use no smaller then 5/8 hose, and Kevin has hose reels he sells that are better then any other you can buy.

Kevin sells hose reels? I am interested.

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Is this the 1/2" Coilhose Filter/Regulator combo?

 

http://www.sjindsupply.com/coilhosefrcombo.html

Yup. You want the 27FC4, 1/2" version. 

 

And yes, I sell hose reels. They are specifically designed FOR roof cleaners BY a roof cleaner. No manifold to rot out, build for me by Hannay, best reels in the world. 

 

They start at about $500 and go up from there. More expensive than a Titan or Steel Eagle? You betcha...but mine will last you years and years versus the frustration of having a manifold rot out.

The ultimate test? When my employee had a heart attack end of the season and things got seriously put on hold and the truck never got winterized and rinsed.

That means the system sat for several months with SH in the line. Fired it back up a week ago and not a single bit of rust or red came out of the hose. 

 

BWA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA! 

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Yup. You want the 27FC4, 1/2" version. 

 

And yes, I sell hose reels. They are specifically designed FOR roof cleaners BY a roof cleaner. No manifold to rot out, build for me by Hannay, best reels in the world. 

 

They start at about $500 and go up from there. More expensive than a Titan or Steel Eagle? You betcha...but mine will last you years and years versus the frustration of having a manifold rot out.

The ultimate test? When my employee had a heart attack end of the season and things got seriously put on hold and the truck never got winterized and rinsed.

That means the system sat for several months with SH in the line. Fired it back up a week ago and not a single bit of rust or red came out of the hose. 

 

BWA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA!

A much inferior Titan Hose Reel is not exactly cheap either, and they can go away fairly quickly, when running the roof cleaning chemical through them.

And, when they die, it is not pretty, because they leak from the inside manifold, and the SH goes all over the place.

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I am curious if my Graco 1" pump will work on this air compressor if I can get it cheap just to get me started. I don't want to waste money on a small compressor and I realize I would be barely scratching the capabilities of my pump but if this one will work for a bit I might at least consider it. There is on Craigslist that says it still has the original tank of gas in it asking $500. 

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hitachi-8-gal-5-5-HP-Wheel-Barrow-Air-Compressor-with-Intake-Filters-and-8-oz-Synthetic-Oil-EC2510E/203397603

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Clayton, go back to the original thread, where Kevin and I told you about the flanges and gaskets you will need.

I have those ordered but they are to hook up my liquid lines. I am asking how to hook up the air line.

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I have always liked the Graco Husky pumps, because they are so simple and easy to work on.

I had the pure Kynar version of the 1050 once, it was stolen off one of my trucks one night :(

Some pumps have air valves that are overly complex, and hard to get to quickly. Not the Graco 1050 !

Parts are super easy to get for it, reasonably priced, and changing the air valve is a total piece of cake.

Oh, and screw the muffler, it is not really "needed", and Mufflers can ice up on you sometimes, and stall your pump. These large 1 inch air pumps sound much like they are "Farting" anyways. Unlike the little All Flow 3/8 roof cleaning pumps, that sound like they are working their asses off, going rat a tat tat tat tat, these go psst then psst then psst every 3 to 5 seconds or so. Because those big diaphragms are basically loafing, pump life between rebuilds is greatly increased.

I see how to hook up it up now. I watched this video again and I see where he screwed a quick disconnect in to the air valve. 

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I see how to hook up it up now. I watched this video again and I see where he screwed a quick disconnect in to the air valve. 

LOL, u had me a little worried Clayton. It is a good idea  to place an inline valve at the pump, in the air line, so when your pump stalls, you can simply turn the air off, then back on again, to reset the air valve, w/o unhooking the air line.

All air pumps can and will stall, from time to time.

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Is there a minimum cfm that it takes to work my 1" Graco? If I hook it up to my 2 hp 8 gallon electric ac should it be able to pump liquid even if only for only a few seconds until the tanked gets tapped?

 

Is there a priming procedure? I read the manual and it gives no minimum requirements and makes it sound like you just stick your inlet hose in the tank, hook it up and go. It does mention to use the lowest psi that will move the diaphragms until it gets primed and then turn the psi up.

 

Will it hurt the pump if I hook up to an AC that is too small or if I run it dry?

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NO, you can run aodd pumps dry with no damage. It only takes a short period for them to prime and pump.

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Since you are a premium member, you have access to the article I posted in the Secrets of Roof Cleaning forum on water management and filtration for AODD pumps. Being in a humid environment, it is relevant.

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Any opinions on this AC or the brand or the website? They have a "haggle it" feature which I have never seen before but they will accept my bid of $1900 delivered. This is almost $400 cheaper than the similar Eaton after shipping and I can get it shipped in a couple days versus waiting at least 3 weeks and probably longer for the Eaton. The warranty is not as good being only 2 years verus 3 years on the motor and 5 on everything else. 

 

 

http://www.compressorworld.com/piston-air-compressors/gas-driven-air-compressors/rcp-1230g-14-hp-kohler-gas-air-compressor-manufactured-from-chicago-pneumatic-25-3-cfm.html

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