Air Diaphragm vs. 12 Volt vs. Gas Powered Pump Systems??

[Shingle Brite]

Well, son of a buck look at this. I guess these will work. Now I just need to know the order an placement of the ws and f/r. 

 

http://www.amazon.com/Goodyear-46568-2-Inch-3-Feet-Lead-In/dp/B0038M50MK

[garyw]

Is there a industrial rubber supply business near-by such as General Ruber supply, They can make hoses any length and size.  Google them.

[PeakOfPerfection]

Parker Hose outlets are pretty common. I get all mine from a place called Industrial Supply, the Parker Hose outlet in Bellingham.

In your area...

HYSPECO INC

2118 E ROCKHURST ST

SPRINGFIELD MO 65802

UNITED STATES

Telephone: (417) 866-2723

[PeakOfPerfection]

In order....Compressor outlet, Air Shutoff Valve, Water Separator, Filter/Reg, Pump.

The more hose you can put between your Comp and your WS, the better as it gives the air a chance to cool and condense the moisture out. Some guys run a coil of air line thru their FW Rinse tank. Compressed air is squeezed so it is hot, hot air holds more moisture, cool air can't hold as much moisture and the water condenses out. If you look at refrigerated air dryers, they cool the air down so it reaches a dew point of -40f. This is why the dryest desert on the entire planet is in Antarctica.

[Shingle Brite]

Thanks for the hose recommendations guys and for the install order explanation. I fired up the beast today. Wowser! This thing is no toy! It started on the first try before I could even get halfway through pulling the cord. It starts so easily I am not sure if I will even use the electric start. 

 

[PeakOfPerfection]

Nice! What are your plans to coat the trailer floor and sides? Remember, SH breaks down Lignin and will start to furr and weaken the wood over a period of time. This is not good on the floor. Rhino Lining is available in white and light grey. Just make really really sure you wear a chem respirator and run a fan for the fumes! 

[Shingle Brite]

To be honest I have considered what to do about the floor and sides but my thought process at least for now is this:

I am not sure I will do anything at this point although I may at least give it a good coat of paint. It almost seems more cost effective to just paint it (or not) and when needed replace the wood plus I have to cut cost somewhere at least until I have some cash coming in. Maybe in a couple months I will do something more to protect it but hopefully my time will be better spent at that time cleaning roofs versus spending a bunch of time and money protecting a $2500 trailer. Maybe I wait until next winter to do something?

 

That being said, I am always willing to listen and I know you have lots of experience and I have none.  I don't know what Rhino Lining would cost but I am guessing it won't be cheap. Do you have a link for where I can buy it? I googled it several different ways but have not found anywhere to buy it other than to have someone else spray it on. 

 

As always, thanks for you help!

[ReNew Roof & Exterior cleaning]

I considered using a heavy duty sealer on my open trailer but the funds just weren't there to start. I used Rustolium Deck Restore 4x on my plywood floor. It held up great and the SH didnt seem to bother it.

[Shingle Brite]

I considered using a heavy duty sealer on my open trailer but the funds just weren't there to start. I used Rustolium Deck Restore 4x on my plywood floor. It held up great and the SH didnt seem to bother it.

That looks interesting. It looks like I might be able to do my whole floor with one gallon if I am careful. That looks to be about $32 bucks. I could do the floor and the walls and the ramp for about $100. If it works that is probably a very good idea. 

[Shingle Brite]

In order....Compressor outlet, Air Shutoff Valve, Water Separator, Filter/Reg, Pump.

The more hose you can put between your Comp and your WS, the better as it gives the air a chance to cool and condense the moisture out. Some guys run a coil of air line thru their FW Rinse tank. Compressed air is squeezed so it is hot, hot air holds more moisture, cool air can't hold as much moisture and the water condenses out. If you look at refrigerated air dryers, they cool the air down so it reaches a dew point of -40f. This is why the dryest desert on the entire planet is in Antarctica.

1.On this should I elevate the position of the ws somewhat so that this condensation runs back towards the air tank where it gets drained out? It seems to me if the ws is at the highest point of the entire airline and the pump is below it that the water will have somewhere to go versus being ultimately forced thru the ws. Wouldn't the guy who runs a coil thru his fw tank need to literally drain his hose from time to time?

2.My ac will be pumping 180 psi until it hits the regulator. It seems to me this is at least a little risky to have the entire air hose under this much pressure regardless of what it is rated for. Do I need to be concerned with this?

[PeakOfPerfection]

1.On this should I elevate the position of the ws somewhat so that this condensation runs back towards the air tank where it gets drained out? It seems to me if the ws is at the highest point of the entire airline and the pump is below it that the water will have somewhere to go versus being ultimately forced thru the ws. Wouldn't the guy who runs a coil thru his fw tank need to literally drain his hose from time to time?

2.My ac will be pumping 180 psi until it hits the regulator. It seems to me this is at least a little risky to have the entire air hose under this much pressure regardless of what it is rated for. Do I need to be concerned with this?

 

Replacing the trailer floor plywood. You don't want to go there. Means you have to tear everything out of the trailer and the floor panels aren't usually designed for ease of removal. Coat it with something...anything to prolong the life until you can get it bed lined. Remember also there are seams and when the wood weakens, the seams will leak and you'll get SH on your trailer running gear...your very expensive and kinda important trailer running gear. Bedliner is cheap insurance...a gallon runs about $80. Use some roof sealant around the holes you put in the floor for mounting tanks/compressor, etc. I like this stuff called Through The Roof...we use it when we do safety anchor installs. It is SH proof. 

 

 

On the WS. Remember, you have a lot of air flowing thru the air lines. The condensate will be forced to the Water Separator with the air pressure and you really don't want it draining back into your tank to sit there and rust. If you want to be doubly sure, you can always put a manifold just before the water separator with a dump valve. Remember, the water is still mostly in vapor form under pressure, but it is easier to condense out when the air if made cooler. It won't pool in the line.

 

Make sure you make some sort of drain line for the tank out the trailer from your comp tank so you aren't constantly dumping water on the floor. Also...get a cheap pair of hearing protectors from Harbor Freight and keep them on a hook in the trailer. The running compressor and the tank dump are bloody loud on my open rig...I can't even imagine how loud they would be in an enclosed small trailer...yikes! If you can route the dump line through the floor and under the trailer...even better. Same with the exhaust.  

 

Air hose. Your compressor should probably be set to 150 PSI on the idle valve. With 200 PSI airline, that is plenty of margin. Rubber airlines in an enclosed space, I'd change them yearly if they seem like they are getting iffy. I have the Goodyear and Parker 1/2" lines on my truck and after a season, they look fine. 

[Shingle Brite]

Anybody know how to vent the exhaust from my air compressor out thru the side or top of my enclosed trailer? 

[PeakOfPerfection]

Any exhaust shop should be able to make you up an exhaust extension cheap. Then it is a matter of getting a flanged heat resistant fitting to go thru the side/top. HVAC company can help there with a B-vent flange. Remember the exhaust needs to point downwards if you run it out the side and it needs to have a rain cap if it goes out the top.

 

I built a custom structural drying system for my mold remediation company, the only one in the United States to run on Biodiesel (never any site spill issues). It outputs 1/2 million BTU's with a direct vent Italian built furnace. We have the 6" furnace exhaust piped out the side of a 14' Wells Cargo trailer. When the fuel is low, it spews fire out. I just had an HVAC company pipe the exhaust out the side with a flanged fireplace fitting and we never had any problems with it even with wood sides in the trailer and the thing running up to 4 days straight (that takes 350 Gallons of fuel). I think they make the flanged fittings pretty small and they are cheap. 

[Shingle Brite]

Any exhaust shop should be able to make you up an exhaust extension cheap. Then it is a matter of getting a flanged heat resistant fitting to go thru the side/top. HVAC company can help there with a B-vent flange. Remember the exhaust needs to point downwards if you run it out the side and it needs to have a rain cap if it goes out the top.

 

I built a custom structural drying system for my mold remediation company, the only one in the United States to run on Biodiesel (never any site spill issues). It outputs 1/2 million BTU's with a direct vent Italian built furnace. We have the 6" furnace exhaust piped out the side of a 14' Wells Cargo trailer. When the fuel is low, it spews fire out. I just had an HVAC company pipe the exhaust out the side with a flanged fireplace fitting and we never had any problems with it even with wood sides in the trailer and the thing running up to 4 days straight (that takes 350 Gallons of fuel). I think they make the flanged fittings pretty small and they are cheap. 

Thanks! Once I have used it for awhile and I am sure I have the ac where I want it I will have a muffler shop fix me up. 

[Shingle Brite]

For my 1" air system what nozzles would be recommended to have on hand so that I will be prepared to spray anything from a fine mist to full blast? My supplier sent me the following and I would like to know what other ones I should add. 

 

00100

25100

0025

0030

2520

2530

[Apple Roof Cleaning (813) 655-8777]

For my 1" air system what nozzles would be recommended to have on hand so that I will be prepared to spray anything from a fine mist to full blast? My supplier sent me the following and I would like to know what other ones I should add. 

 

00100

25100

0025

0030

2520

2530

 

For my 1" air system what nozzles would be recommended to have on hand so that I will be prepared to spray anything from a fine mist to full blast? My supplier sent me the following and I would like to know what other ones I should add. 

 

00100

25100

0025

0030

2520

2530

 

IMHO, you need some bigger, more GPM nozzles! We have used all the way up to a 2550, and that means 25 degrees, at 5 GPM.