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Venting a gas powered air compressor exhaust in an enclosed trailer...

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I was wondering what people did to enclosed trailer setups to vent exhaust from gas powered air compressors, or even if they do anything at all. I would think it could get stifling. I am on the fence when choosing an enclosed trailer vs. open trailer for pressure washing & roof cleaning. Any thoughts?

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closed or open. Both have advantages and dis-advantages. Only you can decide.

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closed or open. Both have advantages and dis-advantages. Only you can decide.

I realize they both have their advantages and disadvantages however what I asked was, what or even if people did anything to vent the fumes from the exhaust. Example: do they cut a hole in the floor of the trailer and run exhaust through hole? I'm not asking for any thoughts on which kind of trailer to buy.

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I realize they both have their advantages and disadvantages however what I asked was, what or even if people did anything to vent the fumes from the exhaust. Example: do they cut a hole in the floor of the trailer and run exhaust through hole? I'm not asking for any thoughts on which kind of trailer to buy.

I had a big box truck, with the rear door taken off of it, and had zero problems.  Maybe if you just open the doors up when the air compressor is running, and you may be ok vs punching holes in it. 

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I had a big box truck, with the rear door taken off of it, and had zero problems.  Maybe if you just open the doors up when the air compressor is running, and you may be ok vs punching holes in it. 

Ok, thanks.

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For the Air Compressor I just open the doors.  When running the pressure washer I just roll it outside the trailer while it is running. A friend of mine has a roof vent and he made a muffler pipe that runs up to it, so he just opens the vent to exhaust.  But who wants to go into a boiling hot trailer?  More important is to have your chemical tank vented to the outside to keep it from rotting out your trailer.  Thanks to Kevin for that info...

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Venting the exhaust gas isn't that big a deal. Best to vent it through the floor. A muffler shop can make up an exhaust pipe to go through the floor for you. You just need to be careful to heat shield it if it goes through wood and make sure the hot exhaust isn't point directly at anything valuable like brake lines, axles or lighting wiring. 

Check out the Sticky at the top of this forum for information on vented tank designs for enclosed trailers and trucks. Building a sealed and externally vented/filled tank system is a cheap way of saving the inside of your trailer/truck. It makes fills much safer and easier. 

Edited by PeakOfPerfection

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Venting the exhaust gas isn't that big a deal. Best to vent it through the floor. A muffler shop can make up an exhaust pipe to go through the floor for you. You just need to be careful to heat shield it if it goes through wood and make sure the hot exhaust isn't point directly at anything valuable like brake lines, axles or lighting wiring. 

Check out the Sticky at the top of this forum for information on vented tank designs for enclosed trailers and trucks. Building a sealed and externally vented/filled tank system is a cheap way of saving the inside of your trailer/truck. It makes fills much safer and easier. 

I'm just seeing this WOW, not sure how I missed it . Thanks!

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Venting the exhaust gas isn't that big a deal. Best to vent it through the floor. A muffler shop can make up an exhaust pipe to go through the floor for you. You just need to be careful to heat shield it if it goes through wood and make sure the hot exhaust isn't point directly at anything valuable like brake lines, axles or lighting wiring. 

Check out the Sticky at the top of this forum for information on vented tank designs for enclosed trailers and trucks. Building a sealed and externally vented/filled tank system is a cheap way of saving the inside of your trailer/truck. It makes fills much safer and easier. 

Also where is this sticky?

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We have a 7x14 enclosed trailer. We have 2 ceiling vents that we had made when we bought the trailer. It also has "ram air" On the front left where air enters and the back right where it exits while we drive and then we keep our doors open. The ram air vet does nothing but keep your trailer really cool and no fumes while you drive it always has a place to escape since they never close. But like everyone else said just having your doors open you are fine I would not spend .01 on venting our exhaust it really is not a issue IMO.

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This might be a silly question, but, for example if one is using an enclosed trailer and the side 32" door is open as well as the back barn doors while working... why would anyone be worried about exhaust fumes ???

I am almost certain that the fumes would escape with natural ventilation...

Also, when the trailer is parked ( enclosed trailer ) and the roof vent is slightly opened with the side vents on the trailer... Is this not enough for venting the chemical tank... overnight parked outside ???

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This might be a silly question, but, for example if one is using an enclosed trailer and the side 32" door is open as well as the back barn doors while working... why would anyone be worried about exhaust fumes ???

I am almost certain that the fumes would escape with natural ventilation...

Also, when the trailer is parked ( enclosed trailer ) and the roof vent is slightly opened with the side vents on the trailer... Is this not enough for venting the chemical tank... overnight parked outside ???

Not a silly question at all. Exhaust fumes are dangerous and it is simply best practice to vent them in the most effective manner. Don't assume nobody will go into your trailer while things are running and that the fumes are effectively vented outside. Children are the biggest worry...they are curious and you might be distracted being on the roof. It doesn't take long for the fumes AND the heat to build up to high levels in even a fully open trailer. The more you can direct the exhaust away from the interior, the safer it is for everybody. 

As for the CL gas being handl d using the venting method you describe...no.  Understand the nature of CL gas...it is HEAVIER than air and will settle at not only the bottom of the trailer interior but that which escapes does so right onto the frame and running gear. There are numerous cleaning contractors who have had broken axles mounts, frames and hitches due to this corrosive effect WITH their trailer vented exactly in the manner you describe. It is also easy to underestimate just how corrosive the fumes are to the trailer and the equipment inside until you've experienced it. Even passively diluted, they will do some pretty significant damage to the interior and the equipment. Guys have rotted out box trucks and enclosed trailers in a few seasons. This is why sealing the tank and controlling the fumes via use of a vent line works and by using an external fill line is best to prevent spills. It is super easy to do, inexpensive, and acknowledges and takes advantage of the nature of the material to limit the damage to equipment and a very expensive piece of transport equipment that is pulled down public roads.

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Not a silly question at all. Exhaust fumes are dangerous and it is simply best practice to vent them in the most effective manner. Don't assume nobody will go into your trailer while things are running and that the fumes are effectively vented outside. Children are the biggest worry...they are curious and you might be distracted being on the roof. It doesn't take long for the fumes AND the heat to build up to high levels in even a fully open trailer. The more you can direct the exhaust away from the interior, the safer it is for everybody. 

As for the CL gas being handl d using the venting method you describe...no.  Understand the nature of CL gas...it is HEAVIER than air and will settle at not only the bottom of the trailer interior but that which escapes does so right onto the frame and running gear. There are numerous cleaning contractors who have had broken axles mounts, frames and hitches due to this corrosive effect WITH their trailer vented exactly in the manner you describe. It is also easy to underestimate just how corrosive the fumes are to the trailer and the equipment inside until you've experienced it. Even passively diluted, they will do some pretty significant damage to the interior and the equipment. Guys have rotted out box trucks and enclosed trailers in a few seasons. This is why sealing the tank and controlling the fumes via use of a vent line works and by using an external fill line is best to prevent spills. It is super easy to do, inexpensive, and acknowledges and takes advantage of the nature of the material to limit the damage to equipment and a very expensive piece of transport equipment that is pulled down public roads.

Thank you...

When exhausting the vent line from the sealed tank... For example: On an enclosed trailer... Where would be the best place to run the vent line... Through the bottom of the trailer to the sides... through the bottom and towards the back barn doors... ???

I would think venting towards the back and elbowed down 90 degrees right by the barn doors would seem likely to be the best place to exhaust those fumes... This way the fumes I would think would not have any contact with the trailers frame or running gear... Please correct me if I would be wrong...

Does that Eaton 9 H.P. air compressor have a good way of venting that exhaust... ??? This is the compressor that I will be purchasing and I have yet to see one in person...

Thanks Kevin... !!!

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