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This thread will be to show the most basic layout drawings for tanks, plumbing, etc. Normally this would go in the Members section...however, newbies need at least *some* basic knowledge and nothing here isn't available online with about 5 minutes of searching. HOWEVER... If you are new...just join as a Premium member. Seriously, it is a heck of an investment. Ask most any Premium. The amount of knowledge and detailed information you will find on pumps, accessories, layouts, how to keep things running, chemicals, marketing and SEO...is absolutely 1000% worth it. Premium membership will save you money and it will make you money. Meantime, I will leave this thread open for drawings and system layout images. Please leave extensive discussions of different types of systems to different threads to keep this reasonably simple to navigate. If you have specific questions on a specific layout, please ask. If anybody wants to contribute their own layout drawings or pictures, please do so. Oh...and ANYBODY who tries to start the Top Vs. Bottom Bulkhead argument will be strung up by their Petard and pelted mercilessly with rotted fruits and vegetables. *************** Here are some universal guidelines applicable to ALL pump setups: 1) The Sealed Tank design shown should be utilized on ALL rigs. There are far too many posts on Facebook, and Pressure washing forums of guys who are suffering suspension and frame failures. Using this design will eliminate most of the corrosion. It is only a matter of time before there is a serious injury caused by a rig failure due to corrosion. Seeing as how the sealed tank system is so easy and affordable to implement and it will significantly cut down on your equipment and rig corrosion, it is silly to NOT do it. 2) Ideal Suction Line Sizing for Pumps. Suction line should be PVC. PVC Polybraid or Spiral Wrap are the most popular options. 3/8 pump: 3/4" 1/2" Pump. 1" 1" Pumps. 1" Note: 1" Air diaphragm pumps run fine with 1" input lines as long as they are driven with reasonable CFM. 3) Grey Schedule 80 PVC is the preferred material for hard pipes. Schedule 80 is thicker, stronger and more UV resistant. All PVC will eventually degrade from UV if not coated. 4) All pumps should have at least a small section of flexible input and output lines going directly in and out of the pumps. This is especially true for Air Diaphragm and Udor types. 5) All pumps with the exception of Kynar Air Diaphragm pumps with Teflon Diaphragms should be rinsed with fresh water after spraying. Even with a Kynar pump, your hose fittings are typically stainless and will rust if not rinsed...so just rinse with fresh water already! 6) Vented Chemical rated ball valves last longer. They are more expensive. The cheap PVC ball valves you buy at Lowes won't last with SH and get stiff and break. Invest in a good valve and it will last. I am on year five with our original 3 way Spears Schedule 80 Chlorine service vented ball valve. It was stupid expensive, but it still works perfectly and doesn't leak a drop. 7) If you use Banjo valves, you must use the Teflon ball/Viton seal version. The Buna Rubber seal version will leak...rapidly. 8) Trigger guns don't last. We nearly all use Ball valves. See note on Schedule 80 or use a Poly Banjo valve at the spray hose end. They won't break as easily if dropped. 9) *Most* metal will rust in the presence of SH. Anything exposed to SH fumes or direct spray should be coated. Hastelloy, Titanium and Tantalum are the non radioactive exceptions. If you have to ask the price... 10) Thread sealer containing Teflon is far preferable over Teflon tape for all fluid connections. Air Connections are fine with Teflon Tape. I use Gasoila for all my low pressure fluid sealing. 11. You need water hose on your truck. Buy Eley Polyurethane Hose or Flexzilla. I run Flexzilla. 12. Check all fittings thoroughly on a regular basis. Test all new fittings with water under pressure with the pump spraying. Materials Guide. Materials from least to most resistant to Chlorine and wear. Pump Materials: Fiberglass Reinforced Polypropylene....Virgin Polypropylene...FKM/Viton...PVC...Teflon/Kalrez...PVDF/Kynar Metals: Steel/Iron...Aluminum...Stainless Steel...Hastelloy C...Titanium...Tantalum. Spray Hose: Polybraid...Polyurethane...PVC Blend.
A good friend of mine who was basically the head "get it done guy" over at Mallard Systems in Orlando uses this pump. It is a Shurflo 2088 713 534 12 volt pump. It is only 45 psi at 3.6 gpm. He swears by this pump, and has used the same pump nearly 2 years, and cleaned over 500,000.00 worth of roofs. This is a Premium Shurflo pump, with an anti rust coating on it.
I've had a couple of guys with 1" pumps running into issues with too much moisture. Particularly back east where you guys can drink the air. Compressed air water management is super important if you run larger pump systems (1"). However...even smaller pumps can benefit from proper water management. Understanding the management of water in your pump system will lead to longer pump life, fewer stalls and less downtime. Here are some of the factors and elements that go into a proper Air Diaphragm Pump water management system. Understanding Compressed Air Moisture. When you compress a certain volume of air, you also compress the moisture contained within that air. Taking the air at surface pressure and squeezing it down into a much smaller space will also take all the moisture in the air and concentrate it. Said water will accumulate in the compressed air tank (if you have one) and will find its way into the air stream which goes to your Air Diaphragm Pump. Water is less compressible than air and thus the larger percentage of water you have in the compressed air stream, the less efficient your tool or air pump engine will be. In addition, excess water accelerates the wear on the air end components in the pump. In worst cases. pumps can actually lock up when a giant slug of water gets into the air end. Here is how to deal with that excess moisture. How To Make Ice With Hot Air. When you compress a gas, it gets hot. The hotter air is, the more moisture it can hold and the more difficult it is to remove that moisture from the air. This means that the air getting to your pump will have a potentially significant quantity of water in it. And this is where physics will bite you. You see, when you compress a gas, it gets hot...but when you DECOMPRESS a gas, it gets cold. Feel the air coming out of your air pump exhaust if you don't believe it. So, here you have a large amount of water trapped in a compressed hot gas...now decompress it and freeze it. The result is ice. Said ice will block up the air end of your compressor, leading to pump stalling. The best way to overcome the excess water/hot air problem is to cool the air. Drain Your Tank(s)! Before anything...DRAIN YOUR TANK(S). If your compressor uses an air tank or tanks to store the compressed air, you MUST drain them religiously. They need to be drained with compressed air in them. Your tank has a drain on it, typically a petcock or screw valve. Drain them after every roof. Drain them when you are walking by the truck. Drain them when you take lunch. Keeping your tanks dry is crucial not only for more effective water removal, but also to the safety and longevity of your compressor. Yes, this gets loud but the drain outputs are nearly always threaded (or easy enough to change the valve to MAKE it threaded) and there is no rule that says you can't run a hose from the drain into a muffler, under the truck/trailer/etc. They even make automatic drains that are timed if you or your employees just flat out can't remember. Cool The Air Now that your tanks are drained (you DID drain them...right?), we can move on to cooling the air. First: Run a long length of air hose. The longer the hose is, the more time the air coming from the compressor has to cool down. While this is not particularly efficient, it may often be just enough for the next stages to work enough to keep your pump free. Second: Water tank. If you run a fresh water rinse tank and you use a long length of hose...simply run the hose through the fresh water tank. The water in the tank acts as a large heat sink and draws heat out. Even better than this is to use a coil or loop of either copper or aluminum tubing in the tank as metal transmits heat far better than air hose. I don't recommend steel or black iron pipe as it will rust. PVC is absolutely a no no for compressed air as it tends to turn into a bomb. Third: Use an After-cooler. An after-cooler is a radiator for compressed air. Often combined with a 12V fan, this is one of THE most effective ways to cool the air coming from the compressor. Typically a well matched aftercooler will drop the air down to within 30 degrees of ambient which is more than enough for a mechanical water separation device to work effectively. Aftercoolers are surprisingly inexpensive, with a matched cooler and fan running under $200 for a 20 CFM setup. If you plan to use your compressor to also run a soda or other media blasting pot, this is a must. Fourth. Refrigerated cooler. This is the extreme and mostly not applicable to mobile compressed air roof cleaning pump uses. A refrigerated cooler takes the air down to a dew point of about -40F. That is cold enough that nearly every drop of water will be forced out. Harbor Freight sells a 115V Refrigerated cooler for about $400. You would need to install either an inverter or plug it into a customer's home in order for this to work. This is recommended ONLY if you plan to utilize your compressor to also either paint or do Soda Blasting (well, you DO own a compressor...it can be used for other things!) Removing the Water. Unless you use a refrigerated cooler (in which case you are DONE)...then removing the water from the now cooled air stream in a mobile air system is typically done mechanically. The most basic form of water removal is the water trap which is built into many filter/regulator systems. These work but are inefficient at best. That being said, if you have a very effective air cooling system, it may be enough. Remember, you do need to drain the water from your water trap. If you don't then you are right back to square 1. Dedicated water separators like the Tsunami are a better option, particularly when you are running larger truck mount or air screw compressors. However, there is a significant problem which limits even the most effective mechanical separator system...heat.
Here is a John Blue gas powered roof cleaning pump http://www.dultmeier.com/products/search/7807 It is only 700.00, and bolts right on a small 2.5 to 3hp Honda motor, or you can use the harbor freight predator motor. It is nearly 300 psi, so it will shoot a long way. As a rule, I like air powered roof cleaning pumps better, because they are more reliable. For a Gas powered roof cleaning pump, these are more relaible then a UDOR Roof Cleaning Pump, and cost about 1/2 as much.