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Hello guys. I bought a pump and regulator off Kevin, but am looking for basic setup instructions. I have a 1/2" pump, regulator, tsunami water separator and new harbor freight 9 gallon compressor.

Would someone mind drawing me a diagram for how to set this up? The pump has 4 ports, but I'm used to a 12v that just has one in and one out, so I'm not sure what I'm looking at. I know one is air in, one is chem in and one is chem out, but I don't know what the 4th is or which ones are which. My fittings and manifold fell out of the box during shipping and then the second set was stolen by one of his employees, so I'm skipping the manifold for now.

I really appreciate your time. I'm sure many others could use this basic information. Thank you. 

Brennon Williams

Soap and Water

www.SoapAndH2O.com

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Edited by Brennon Williams

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woody70   

You should have a good length (I'd say at least 15', I run 50') of hose coming out of your compressor then you connect the air hose to your water separator first, then filter/regulator and finally the pump.

Edited by woody70

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Jeff   

If you have a fresh water tank on board, as many guys who also pressure wash often do,....run your 50' of hose through the water tank,..provides extra cooling of the air. Just make two holes in the top of the tank for the hose ends to run through,..just silicone around the holes.  I was fortunate when I did this,..my tank has a big rectangular opening that I was able to allow the hose to stay coiled except for what I needed to run to the compressor and pump. I left enough hose so the coil of air line just floats up and down with the water level.

 I think you could also just push the hose through the holes and let it float around in there,..shouldn't disrupt the outlet of the tank until it would get so low the hose was floating in very little water near the outlet. For me, this made a big difference in how my pump performed where stalling is concerned,

These pumps like dry air,...and before,.. my water trap wasn't working because the trap is made to catch droplets of water,..not vapor,..the vapor just passes on through and condenses inside the pump which isn't good for operation. Aside from the non-stalling I could tell it was working instantly because my water trap was about 1/2-3/4 full at the end of a roof job,..where as before there was hardly anything in it.

*I took the time last year to learn a little about proper compressor setups,..was well worth the reading.  Guys who do this inside a garage can make a cheap air drying system buy using a good length of copper in a coil, and submerge it into a 55 gallon barrel. Copper is better at cooling than PVC air hose. This is where I got the idea from to begin with.

Jeff

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First off. Thank you guys! I have a few questions.

I have air coming out of the bottom of the water separator. Is that normal?

I also bought a regulator from Kevin, so I removed the one that came on the machine. Only the one is needed, correct?

I've attached a picture of the kit assembled on the floor. Everything look kosher?

compressor, 50ft of 1/2" air line, tsunami separator, regulator, 20 ft of 1/2" air line, pump

2015-06-10 17.07.30.jpg

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Jeff   

Only one water trap is needed,..some guys use two,...but yours is a good one.  Not sure about the 25' of air hose between the separator  and the pump. That just gives the compressed air a chance to  condensate again before it gets to the pump.I think you want short hose there. Kevin will be able to better give you advise,..but that's my initial thoughts.

Jeff

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