There is a couple of videos on youtube that show how to do this. Just google EPA pressure washing or pressure washer water containment or reclamation. There is a guy from one of the pressure wash suppliers that did like a 10 part series on you tube about EPA guidelines. Basically sand bag tubes and vacuum/filters. You are trying to keep it out of the storm drains (whether you use chemicals or not) and out of any water source like a pond/ lake or stream... So basically the sand bags create a dam to channel the water to your vacuum so you can pick it up. Then you either have to process it and filter it your self or take it to a processing center. There are all kinds of rules and exemptions that vary from state to state and town to town. For the most part the EPA rules are what everyone copies.
An LLC protects YOU from being Sued. They can sue your company. A DBA offers no protection. So If you have a DBA they can take everything you own. where as with an LLC they can only take your business assets. NOTE that NOTHING is bullet proof with the way the legal system runs nowadays... Running out of your home is up to your local codes. Call your zoning or code officer. If you start out as long as you are neat and tidy and have little to no activity (customers/employees/trucks) mucking up the neighborhood then you may get away with it for a while. But beware - it is always the nosey neighbor that has noting better to do that will call into the zoning board and complain. When that happens most likely you will get a letter telling you to stop doing whatever it is you are doing. There is a chance that you could get the one hard ass in town who wants to flex his/her power and he/she could drag you into court.
SS tax. TIME. Uniforms or other promotional items separate from advertising. . Office supplies. Computers. TIME. Cleaning supplies. Association fees, Certification fees, books, courses, conventions. Cash on hand to fix or replace things you ruined or killed, that fall below your insurance deductibles. Did I mention TIME?
For the Air Compressor I just open the doors. When running the pressure washer I just roll it outside the trailer while it is running. A friend of mine has a roof vent and he made a muffler pipe that runs up to it, so he just opens the vent to exhaust. But who wants to go into a boiling hot trailer? More important is to have your chemical tank vented to the outside to keep it from rotting out your trailer. Thanks to Kevin for that info...
Yes two would be better than one because you double your compression area (air space in the top chamber) but they would both have to be installed on the same line. Having a larger one is better. Theoretically you could string 10 small ones together and have the same amount of compression space as one large one BUT then you would have 20 more fittings and hose clamps and possible leaks. It would cost a fortune. The other side of the coin is to just size your nozzle large enough so that the pump runs constant.
the "accumulator tank" is just a bladder tank the job of the tank is NOT to have a lot of water in it. The bladder is to separate the air from the water. As you put water in the tank it pushes the bladder up (the bladder expands) and compresses the air above it. Water does not compress. The whole reason you have a tank is so the pressure valve has as large cushion of air for expansion as it can before turning the pump on and off. The air chamber also helps reduce water hammering. The pressure from the air in the bladder is now what pushes your water through the line while the pump is off, until it gets so low that it forces the pump to turn on. Look at a well out side it does not matter if it is a bladder tank or a galvanized tank with no bladder (they have a weeping valve to introduce air and a air release valve on the side to release air) If the tanks are lets say "80 Gallon Tanks) that does not mean they hold 80 gallons of water) in reality they only hold about half that amount, the rest of the tank is filled with compressed air. The air pressure in the tank (checked by the air valve on top) should be matched to your pressure switch and has nothing to do with GPM. So in this case it should only be 10 to 15 pounds just like the smaller tank ( the little plastic accumulator tank) was. This is because the pressure switch on the pump is set to go on when the pressure gets down to that psi. If you have more air psi than that in the top of the bladder, then the pressure switch thinks it is at a higher pressure and shuts the pump off sooner because it thinks the tank has built up the pressure when in reality you have put to much air in there. To much air/psi in the top part of the tank defeats the whole purpose of having a larger tank. Remember ONLY check the air valve for the propper pressure whit the pump shut off and the pressure removed from the water line (Drain the line to and from the tank) so you don't get a false reading. So Remember the water rising from the bottom of the tank pushes the baldder up causing the air on top of the bladder to compress the trapped air and that is the reading the pressure switch relies on. So the larger the tank you can get the more water it will hold. The little one may hold 3 cups, the blue one shown may hold a gallon, the 20 gallon tanks may hold 10-12 gallons, the 80 gallon tanks may hold 35-40 gallons, It all depends on how much air is stored/compressed and that is controlled by the settings on the pressure switch.