It's only mid-February but the phone is ringing off the hook and hits to our websites are increasing daily. Frankly, I'd like to take some more time off before getting pulled back in the 'vortex'. :-) Any other parts of the country seeing early signs of the spring rush yet?
Thanks everyone, for the input. If anyone else has a commercial grade solution to share, please do chime in. Some clarification based on comments above:
No 3 phase power on site. No compressors on my trucks. I want to keep this simple and bullet proof. We treat 5-10 roofs a day in Virginia alone, and down-time or delays with chem transfers cost me money, not to mention it frustrates the hell out of me. I can't/won't tap the bottom of the tank (or any chem tank for that matter). Some rationale as follows: Not mine. It's my suppliers, not mention they cost about $5000 or so each. It has a built in catch basin in case of a leak or rupture. Couldn't tap the bottom if you wanted to. A bulkhead leak on a 1200 gallon tank is an EPA nightmare. Not worth the risk.If there was a sure fire way to prime the existing pool pump in the event that prime is lost, I could keep the $200 pool pump solution. Given that 8 ft of suction lift is needed, that's a difficult task without a high flow water source. Surely others have faced this same dilemma I would think. More research is warranted before I pull the trigger.... Thanks again to those that offered ideas or suggestions.
And then we moved.... No more high volume water supply line. It's a LONG 1/2" pvc run, so priming those 1.5" pipes with water for the pool pump arrangement is out of the question. Oh yeah, if you haven't figured it out yet, the tank is about 8' tall. So a drum pump like the one I originally mentioned wont work. So I'm looking down the barrel of about $2700 hit (list price) on a commercial grade pump, made for a SH environment, that has enough suction lift to self prime. Has anyone come up with a better commercial grade solution? By that I don't mean Delavans. Thoughts and insight appreciated.
I'm in the middle of changing SH storage locations. More expensive, but closer to home. At the old location (pics below) the water source had extremely high volume. This allowed for using water to prime a non-priming pump AND it's 1.5" lines if/when suction was broken and air got in the line. A $200 pool pump moved that SH quite nicely and the same high volume water supply allowed for it to be rinsed quickly as well. Notice the plumbing mounted to the wall. Two companies shared this set-up, so we could select tanks among other things. We could literally fill a tank up within a few minutes and be on our way.
Time is money. We all know that. And standing around waiting for a tank on your rig to fill is not what I want to be doing when I have tons of work in the pipeline. If you have your SH stored in drums, or totes, I have a commercial grade solution for you that is very fast, and made for a SH environment. They're Thompson FTI Drum pumps with sealed motors. Let me warn you in advance, they are spendy. BUT, a local SH supplier that I use from time to time has had one in operation for years with no problems. This is in a commercial environment, and it does NOT get rinsed. Pump and motor will likely run $1500 or more. I would guess they're running at about 25-30 GPM or better with no/low head. Details can be found here. They're AC powered and you can use a foot switch to control them. So this is a commercial grade, high volume solution, if you don't require much suction lift. On the other hand, I need about a 8' suction lift. Ugh. Read on in the next posts if you can provide any insight.
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Coastal1 - why run 3 inputs when two will do? Maybe I'm missing something - Unless you're using your roof cleaning pump for house washes as well? That would explain it I guess. Re: Slo Mo, I will be trying it at the beginning of our season. Historically, we've used a locally procured surfactant, as it was more cost effective than specialty surfactants after shipping. However; with this stuff working at a 1 quart to 100 gallon ratio, it IS cost effective even with shipping costs. Looking forward to trying it, and hopefully buying a 55 gallon barrel after our trial run.
There's a couple of diagrams on the old forum for a DIY version, but I suspect this would to the trick quite nicely. No need for an inverter (AC). Just tie in the 12v with an isolator. PM me or call for other options. You want to power in use, or charge on the fly while on the road? It takes a lot to run down a good deep cycle battery in a day. And if you do run it down, that's a good thing - it means lots of work got done. Best of all, there's always a spare under the hood :-)