Instructions? We don;'t need any stinking instructions :-) Seriously, I never read any instructions. Today about 10 oz of Slo Mo to 100 gallons of roof mix. It works AS ADVERTISED. Lori, please PM with what I can expect for shipping charges on a 55 gallon drum. TIA!
I'm very pleased Mike. Now, full disclosure, we've been buying a surfactant on the local economy for years. We've even done gallon for gallon (roof mix dosage) price comparisons with a friend in the same business, as compared to his commercially available roof cleaning surfactant. Prior to Slo Mo, it was dead even from a cost perspective due largely to shipping costs. Slo Mo has proven itself to be the more cost effective solution and we'll be buying a 55 gallon barrel of it as soon as I figure out how to pump that stuff out of a barrel :-) Good stuff! As Lori has stated very clearly in prior posts, be prepared to add your own cover scent as it has none. BTW - we do LOTS of roofs, so when I say it's good, it's good.
Yesterday, we used a blend of our old (local) surfactant, and Slo Mo. My tank was already half full, so blending was my only choice. TODAY however; it's 100% Slo Mo. Looking forward to trying it out. So I got to thinking a little, as we're always looking for ways to speed production, why not just 'dose' our bulk containers with Slo Mo, and not have to add it to the rigs separately? Does anyone know if this stuff will stay suspended in SH, or will it settle to the bottom? If it'll stay suspended, time saver! If not, then oh well :-)
Ryan, if you're going to be on an asphalt roof, I can't recommend Cougar Paws enough. Full disclosure - you won't hardly catch me on a roof - heights are not my thing, but my team wears them unless it's a really low slope. They're a little spendy, but to stay safe, they're worth every penny.
There were a couple of clowns on one of those FB groups that mentioned ladders for house washing. I mentioned that we do 3+ stories from the ground and they scoffed. Rather than educate 'em, I just moved on. With little to no wind today, I saw the stream go easily 8-10' passed the gutter line on this 3 story home This was with a plain old 8GPM belt drive machine and a 'shooter tip' at the gun. No wand!. Can't wait until my custom made injector-bypass system is ready, then we'll get even more distance! You're not climbing ladders to house wash are you? :-)
Wow. That's quite a difference. And you'll have a good/interesting time gathering data :-) One thing that the formula on the web page you listed doesn't take in to consideration is head though. GPM would be effected when one is two stories up, or so I would think? I should have studied fluid dynamics. Ha! Good luck with your testing.
I reckon you're looking for more distance, hence the change in hose diameter? Otherwise why pull a heavier hose, right? I'd suggest doing a little test, as there are some other variables, ie pump GPM, pump psi and so on. At some point diminishing returns comes in to play. I can tell ya this, when I ran that 1" ID Kuri tech hose, I ran it via a FB and a 1/2" inlet lines with no problems. That's not to say that 5/8 inlet may not have helped with the distance. Perhaps someone else will have some definitive information in this.
There's are only two leads to wire. I ran those things for years. The hot lead from the motor does indeed route to the pressure switch, then from the other side of the pressure switch back to the battery. Once the pre-set pressure is reached, it "opens" the pressure switch interrupting the 12v. With Dwelltech, I think it's something with his external switch as the pump will run, but the switch doesn't shut it off. He'll have it figured out in the morning. :-) BTW - I heard that Bruce's solenoid solution that you mention works great!
That's much more clear. Black ground wires connected together ("Leads from battery connected to "Neg from pump" "POS from pump" to terminal on the switch. OTHER terminal on switch to positive battery terminal What is NOT clear is if you have 12v to the switch through the metal firewall. If so, then the 'line side' terminal may always be hot. In which case, wire the pump to the load side. If you have a VOM you can figure out it pretty easily. When I ran switches (I don't any longer, they just corrode and fail at the worst opportune time) I simply ran a single pole switch in series with the positive lead. You'll figure it out. :-)
I haven't used a FB for a while (we use 5850s) so someone keep me honest here. There should only be only two exposed wires on the FB, a black one and a red one. It looks like you have third wire (black) coming from the relay area? Did you disconnect something perhaps? If so, put it back like the way it came and then: Red wire from FB to switch, then switch wire to positive battery terminal Black wire (original loose one) straight to negative battery terminal.
That's a great post Steven! Knowledge builds integrity and trust with our clients. Ironically, there are a few other basic things missing from that diagram, including but not limited to, the rake, ridge vents and pipe collars to name a few. Still a great post.