I haven't used the Green wash yet but I did use Final Wash as it was the only product i could find that was recommended for metal roofs and I have to say it works very well at the end of the job to add a wax like shine to metal roofs, vinyl siding and even rinses down windows pretty nicely. I myself did a weekend seminar with AC and decided to not buy his equipment but built my own. Not that I think his equipment or organization is bad but just not my fit and little pricey. Anyway his soaps do seem to be pretty good and user friendly.
I just did a green roof i'll attach the picture below. First be careful not to walk on it especially wet you WILL fall! A low mix around 1-2 Percent of SH worked well with no detergent and lots and lots of rinsing. Make sure to hit the roof from one direction and then the other to get those ridges that are every foot or so. At the end of the job I put on some final wash from softwash systems its considered a corrosion inhibitor which basically neutralizes the bleach so theres no rusting and it also adds a nice wax look to the roof. I'm not sure what other soaps do what final wash does but I'm sure if you do some research there are other options. Oh and I price metal roofs at about 70-80% more then shingles. (example 2,000 sq. ft. house with shingle maybe $500 with metal roof $800-$900). Good luck they can be very difficult.
Thanks everyone for your feedback. I am trying different nozzles but still haven't gotten more then 50ft. I contacted eaton because my compressor actually broke last Saturday on the job and i had to go out and rent one. It took a couple days to get in touch with the right person but they were helpful and are sending me the part I need to get the machine back up and running although I am the one paying for it to be overnighted but its better then paying for the rental. If i purchase another compressor i may search for a local company that has a repair shop so I can go directly to them instead of dealing with the phone and shipping.
OK i got the 060 and it sure gives me more volume but I am only getting maybe 50 ft out of it. Its unfortunate that I can't get this to spray farther then my old 12v system. On another note I'm not super impressed with Eaton air compressors. They run fine but I had a few loose bolts on the frame when it was delivered and they told me I was able to install an electric starter as they wouldn't do it for me so I bought an electric starter kit and it turns out that eaton has the motor to close to the pump. In order to fit the actual starter on the honda motor I would need to slide the motor over on the frame about 4-5 inches and buy bigger belts for the drive which is doable but just not what I was told by the eaton tech. They also advertise 20 CFM and 19 CFM on their website so I asked the eaton tech what the true CFM was and he said 18 @ 90psi. Why the hell wouldn't they just advertise the one damn CFM. Anyway this whole air system conversion has been quite disappointing but now that its all over and done with I guess I won't need to worry about my 12v pump wearing out every few months and no more batteries to charge so.........
Ok so I changed a couple things. I got rid of the regulator I had installed near the pump. My original thought was i could just change the pressure if needed from the back instead of going around to the front of the van to the air compressor but that is now gone and I think it was restricting a bit of air flow. I also played around with my air compressor a bit to make sure i was getting the 90-100 psi. I ordered some bigger nozzles 040 and 060 as when i did remove the 4 bang nozzle from the quick connect i was getting just about the same distance as with a 020 but the nozzles are not in yet. I tried a 030 that I had laying around and got a few more feet. I'm hoping with the 040 or 060 ill get to the distance I was hoping for. Thanks for all the import! Happy Easter!
Thanks! I'm gonna try those ideas you mentioned. I am running a 1/2" air line that goes into a tsunami water separator and then a regulator which i am going to take off to make sure thats not restricting me. I have about 225 ft of 5/8" hose, I guess I could cut it in half and use quick connectors when more is needed but I really thought this was gonna be a big difference. My old 12v system had 1/2" hose and 200 ft and shot farther so something has to be wrong. Thanks for the response. I'll let you know how I make out.
Ok I finally made the change from 12v to air and I am not impressed at all but hopefully some of you air pump pros can tell me i'm doing something wrong. This is what I got a 18 or 19 or 20 CFM Eaton wheelbarrow compressor (I've heard all different CFM's) running at 90 psi hooked up to a 1" Graco Husky 1050 with all suctions lines being 1-1/2" and the output line being 1" going to my manifoldness gorilla real that then connects to my 5/8 kuri Tec hose with a 3/4" banjo valve and I've tried both the master nozzle and a 4 bang nozzle with 0020. I use to shoot 45 ft with my 12v electric and now I shoot 40-45 ft with this expensive air system! What am I doing wrong?
I like that it says you can clean it and not to use subbing or high pressure but I don't like that they say it doesn't damage the shingles as many customers seem to clean their roofs in hope to prolong the life and I don't want to mislead them.
I'm going to give this local bank a price to clean their roof but I wanted to get your thoughts on what type of roof it might be and how to clean it. It looks like slate from the ground but I'm assuming its a composite of some sort. Is this cleaned like asphalt shingles or would a lower mix be the way to go?
I have a customer that has a screened in porch with plastic enclosures for an all year use. Same type of pull down plastic that you see at restaurants to achieve the same all year round usage. My question is how does SH and detergents effect these plastic covers? The homeowner said she was told not to use anything but water and a little dawn soap. Do I need to avoid these completely? Maybe roll them up? Thanks