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Jeff

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  1. Fall protection tip, rafter tie off and hip anchor

    Hey Jim,..yea there are different circumstances,..and it sounds like getting on the roof may be needed for the work you mentioned. Kinda like doing roof repair,..couldn't do that from the roof edge neither. There are always exceptions to the "rule". So I guess I am talking about guys spraying basic roofs,..like many of us here on the East Coast see. Also,.I know some rinse moss and some don't. I prefer to let it fall off on it's own,..but again,..different mindsets among contractors in any service. Jeff
  2. Fall protection tip, rafter tie off and hip anchor

    Troy,..you'll be much happier doing it this way,..you also don't have hose dragging around through roof mix and then getting onto the grass when you come down. I can be rinsed off sure,..but that's just another step that's not needed. Go to the top of the ladder, and spray,..so much simpler. This whole climbing around on roofs has been done and is done by many guys to this day,..and I can't figure it out. I really can't.,..especially when they get into rigging ropes and tie off points and everything,..if the roof is that steep, simply let the pitch spread the "Love" cover the roof for you. *Love is a term coined by Chris Tucker years ago by the way. Jeff
  3. Fall protection tip, rafter tie off and hip anchor

    Hey Troy,..no issues at all with spraying from the roof edge (Top of ladder) NONE!! Controlling runoff is accomplished by the guy spraying,..not the pitch of the roof,...Spray it slow,..and you'll get a feel for how fast you can go,..learn how to apply and you'll never need to get on the roof. Troy I used to use a pump sprayer about 17 years ago,..with all the knowledge and pumps available to us now,..there is NO reason at all to be getting on a roof,...wait,..there is one reason,...ONLY if the roof is so FLAT that the mix won't readily roll down the roof. Getting on these steep roofs is NOT needed. With the right pump,.a few simple extensions for odd angles sometimes,..but there is always a way to do residential without getting on the roof. AND ,.even if there is the odd roof that can't be done,..just pass it up,.not worth the risk. Jeff
  4. Fall protection tip, rafter tie off and hip anchor

    Still can't figure why anyone would go to so much effort to spray a steep roof. Why not just spray them from the roof edge at the top of the ladder. SOOOO much easier. *Notice I didn't use question marks,.because I asked it in a rhetorical fashion,...this has been done to death over the years and I've heard all the reasons why,..and I'm sure they haven't changed,..along with my astonishment every time I see it come up. Jeff
  5. Steve,..SH is eco friendly. And , it is what's RECOMMENDED and APPROVED for use on shingle roofs by the manufacturers,... and also on Univars MSDS list of approved uses. Do not try and use anything but SH,..if you do will be sorry,..and you will look like a clown to your customers. There are other products on the market,..but to my knowledge,.. none are recommended by the shingle manufacturers for cleaning shingles,..WHY,..because these products like Sodium Percarbonate and/or Sodium Hydroxide,..and they both require pressure to finish. And Sodium Hydroxide is a serious degreaser and has no business on an asphalt based roof. And forget about Calcium Hypochlorite,..(AKA) (Common Pool Shock),.. The only thing that works well for the black streaking other than SH,..is Copper Sulfate,..but it's a time release thing that takes a few months to work,..and that' s a hard sell to customers. There are many guys here who have done ALOT of experimenting,..only SH works in a practical sense. Jeff
  6. I agree Chris,..Sh/Water combo will work,...but the addition of a basic detergent will aid in the SH performance and also allow it to stay wet longer and also penetrate. The reason I mention this is because there are so many off the shelf products we have used over the years that it's just too easy to add it in. Just use something compatible with SH,..especially when starting a new business,..having mix sit in the tank for extended periods of time is more prone to new business's. BUT,..you should always try to use compatible products no matter what. Regular Gain dish liquid that Chris figured out years ago is a good off the shelf choice,..even many laundry soaps will work. Steve,..don't overthink this business like many people do,..Chris is right in that sense,..basic SH and water will work,..so don't get too involved in all the reading of soaps. Pick one and stay with it,..then down the road when you get a feel for the business you can play,..but,..playing is still not needed. The pump set ups and detergents are easy,..don't overthink it,..put your efforts into learning proper application techniques,.controlling runoff,.etc. Don't be consumed by the basics. Jeff
  7. Cedar Roof Cleaning Basics

    I think I read in the past where guys simply used a 12V pump to apply the sealer,...makes sense,..as I know many of the wood guys use 12V to apply stains and sealers to decks. I've never sealed a cedar roof,..so I can't say first hand. I think many guys still use Sodium Hypochlorite on cedar with heavy growth,..maybe not ideal,..but then is a roof covered with moss and lichen. Used appropriately I'm sure it would be fine in certain cases. Case by case basis on methods I suppose. Jeff
  8. Cedar Roof Cleaning Basics

    Sodium Percarbonate mixed at 8 OZ. per gallon and Sodium Hydroxide added at 2 oz. per gallon and applied with dedicated pump and neutralize with oxalic mixed at 6 OZ per gallon. You could also DS Sodium Hydroxide I've done it many times on Cedar,..and is actually my preferred method due to speed. Cedar that is just grayed out is VERY easy to clean. Cedar with heavy moss takes alot of rinsing, so having a good "On Board" rinsing pump is a necessity,...counting on the customers' water is a gamble at best. And if they're on a well,..that will need to be discussed beforehand. YES, these need to be charged for appropriately. Nothing like doing an asphalt shingled roof. The results though are very gratifying. Jeff
  9. What Roof Cleaning Pump Are You Using ?

    Air pump setups are not contraptions,..they are a well "oiled" machine when set up properly. Some people like them, and some feel as you do,.that it's too much "going on" to simply apply a liquid to a roof. But they are also very reliable and that extra spray distance may be the difference between slipping on a a roof,..or spraying from the the relative safety of a ladder. Me,..I like the reliability factor over the distance factor. Many guys do spray roofs mostly by walking,..they claim it uses less chemical. So a 12V would suit as far as distance goes if you're walking. SH is VERY slippery itself, so using a different surfactant on a tile roof probably isn't gonna make a huge difference. Jeff
  10. HELP HELP!!!

    I ran a direct drive,.. 4 GPM off a 100 gallon tank for years,..never had an issue that wasn't easily remedied as addressed below. The biggest reason he was most likely having an issue was due to trapped air in the feed hose somewhere ,..or he started the machine and ran it at WOT at first "hookup",.... Before starting the engine: (1) Loosen one of your supply hose connections to bleed the air. (2) Without the trigger gun hooked up,...start the engine and run at idle,..for a few seconds,..tighten the connection back up while engine is running,..should solve the issue. Try not to "have" to unhook the supply,..even when I check the filter,..I always put the filter cap back on loosely,.and then turn the water back on,..THEN finish tightening the filter cap. *Pumps suck better at low RPM. Jeff
  11. I go look at every job that is a new customer,..not just to see the the work and landscape,..but meeting the customer shows a more personal touch and interest in their job. I like to explain about moss and lichen and anything else that may be of interest,..not to mention the possibilities of other work. Oh,.and I don't write any quotes on anything in most cases. I like keeping business casual. I give them a price and and they say, "sure do it"... then I come and do it. ( I will write it down in my personal notes, because busy times can get confusing on who gets charged what,Ha,Ha,.) *Certain jobs require written quotes,..but residential is just agreed on when looked at. **We have about 100 regular every year customers who just call when they're ready, we obviously don't look at these every time. In fact many of these customers have told us a month they want it done every year and we just schedule it in. Jeff
  12. Gain Dish Soap For Cleaning Roofs!

    I was looking into buying 55 gallon barrel of Ammonyx MO through Univar. They gave me an information sheet,..and part of the information explains how to get to a desired viscosity,..adding Sodium Chloride until desired viscosity is reached. I personally did this with SLS by mistake,..I added NAOH to some SLS and it made it so thick I couldn't even stir it. After doing some research I learned that many companies will add simple salt to improve thickness of a product to make it seem more concentrated. *I've been using Gain on house washes,..and it works as well as elemonator I've been using. Suds up nice and cleans very well. With that said,..I've said it in the past numerous times,...general house washing isn't that hard,..many surfactants will work equally. I may be switching to Gain for my house washing soap. At half the cost it does make a difference at some point. Although elemonator does work well,...The ONLY reason I was using elemonator was because of the fresh lemon smell,..I think other products work equally as well as I stated above,..and the savings is worth sacrificing the smell. It didn't hide the smell in the bleach anyhow,..it just smelled nice in the dip bucket we use for brushes. Jeff
  13. Air pump setup diagram

    Only one water trap is needed,..some guys use two,...but yours is a good one. Not sure about the 25' of air hose between the separator and the pump. That just gives the compressed air a chance to condensate again before it gets to the pump.I think you want short hose there. Kevin will be able to better give you advise,..but that's my initial thoughts. Jeff
  14. Air pump setup diagram

    If you have a fresh water tank on board, as many guys who also pressure wash often do,....run your 50' of hose through the water tank,..provides extra cooling of the air. Just make two holes in the top of the tank for the hose ends to run through,..just silicone around the holes. I was fortunate when I did this,..my tank has a big rectangular opening that I was able to allow the hose to stay coiled except for what I needed to run to the compressor and pump. I left enough hose so the coil of air line just floats up and down with the water level. I think you could also just push the hose through the holes and let it float around in there,..shouldn't disrupt the outlet of the tank until it would get so low the hose was floating in very little water near the outlet. For me, this made a big difference in how my pump performed where stalling is concerned, These pumps like dry air,...and before,.. my water trap wasn't working because the trap is made to catch droplets of water,..not vapor,..the vapor just passes on through and condenses inside the pump which isn't good for operation. Aside from the non-stalling I could tell it was working instantly because my water trap was about 1/2-3/4 full at the end of a roof job,..where as before there was hardly anything in it. *I took the time last year to learn a little about proper compressor setups,..was well worth the reading. Guys who do this inside a garage can make a cheap air drying system buy using a good length of copper in a coil, and submerge it into a 55 gallon barrel. Copper is better at cooling than PVC air hose. This is where I got the idea from to begin with. Jeff
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