I'm honestly not sure the one will last any longer than the other. Smaller head on the triple cylinder unit but the bigger dual is probably harder load on the engine. You could buy a spare head for the triple head unit and keep it in reserve. Honestly, You wouldn't be dissatisfied with either one.
Unfortunately, the learning curve can tend to get expensive. Just saw a post on one of the Facebook forums...guy's Honda engine on his PW machine was COMPLETELY rotted. Aluminum totally pitted and porous, flywheel 100% rusted, part of the aluminum casting broke off and fubar'd the flywheel. Less than $50 worth of parts and an hour of time could have prevented a lot of it. And yes...SH tank on the trailer.
For Yamada parts, contact Depco Pumps in Florida. If the pump is a "new" $399 Ebay pump, I'd also put an air end service kit in it since a lot of those pumps sat on the shelf for about 7-10 years and the air end seals are typically pretty dried out. Had a LOT of calls on those. You might check with Yamada and ask if anything needs to be changed out to put a Teflon diaphragm in there. Santoprene is a lot cheaper but you'll go though them faster and the Yamada Teflon diaphragm isn't too horribly expensive. They don't use a backer diaphragm so it may be a direct replacement. Note: if your pump did NOT come with the diaphragm removal wrench, you'll want to order it. Also have a torque wrench handy and torque ONLY to the specs. I've seen far too many cracked Yamada manifold due to over-torqueing. By the way...an NDP-15FVS is a rare beast! Most of the Kynar body pumps are FVT's with the Teflon or FVVs with the Viton diaphragms.
Nice unit. But worth the extra $758? Not in my mind. Both have similar CFM outputs (spec pages show them as identical). Tank size...questionable whether that makes a lot of difference with an AODD pump when through put is more important as soon as you run though the tank capacity which happens pretty quickly while running the pump constantly. If it was me, and If it makes a difference to you then purchase a couple of $39 11 Gallon Harbor Freight aux tanks, plumb then inline and you'd have 32 gallons of air storage with the same CFM delivery for $700 less. Take $120 of that $700 and buy an electric starter kit for the wheelbarrow comp. Then you'll have a 20 CFM compressor with electric start and 32 gallons of tank capacity and still save about $580. The $1900 unit does have a bigger compressor head so in theory it may last longer, but both have the 5 year Eaton warranty.
Wasnt' saying yours wasn't Teflon. It is. But the green is the Santoprene backer. Your pump has two diaphragms per side. 661AJ-344C. The "J" is the code for the manifold material and output. That code refers to a the 1 piece Polypropylene manifold and fluid chamber. What is in contact with the fluid is the fluid chambers, the manifolds and the diaphragm. Being Polypropylene, you should rinse the pump because Poly will eventually degrade. But you said it didn't need to be rinsed because it is teflon on the inside, was just pointing that out. Rinsing is a good idea no matter what because even with a Kynar/Teflon pump, you still have stainless connectors on your spray hose and typically quick connects and usually ball valves. A quick shot of water thru the system helps those things last longer. All I'm sayin' The next three numbers on your model number are the codes for the seat material, ball valve material and the diaphragm material. The last "4" code refers to PTFE/Teflon Diaphragm. Good stuff. Now, look at the manual for that pump. On page 5 is the rebuild chart for the pumps. Here is the reference drawing for the teflon diaphragm set...
If you look really closely, you can see the white ring of the second diaphragm in your picture above. Your pump *is* Teflon, but it has a Santoprene backing diaphragm because the Teflon can't be run as a stand alone diaphragm. It is also why the Teflon versions of those pumps, and most other pumps that use Teflon diaphragms, have slightly less output than the Viton, Butyl or Santoprene single diaphragms, they are inherently stiffer. I like the Teflon and Viton. One last thing...the mufflers. Watch them. Those things are notorious for rusting. If your pumps start to get a bit wonky and intermittent, it is one thing to check. Got caught out with a 6661A-444C Kynar version that I rebuilt...all new air end, new fluid end, new pilot valve seals, etc. Would't pump. Turned out the stupid muffler had corroded inside and was passing about 25% of the air through it.
Nicely done! Couple of points. Poly body pumps DO have to be rinsed. The manifolds and fluid chamber needs to be rinsed. SH will eventually break them down and they'll craze. The Teflon part is the diaphragm and it doesn't need rinsing but the body does. Also, the green you see on the ARO is actually a Santoprene diaphragm. ARO uses a twin diaphragm system on their Teflon pumps. The Teflon is pure white. you'll just barely be able to see the white Teflon diaphragm to the outside if you look really closely. Santoprene is much less expensive to replace so the temptation may be to just use that backer if the Teflon goes out. You can't. Single diaphragm AROs have a different length main shaft than the Teflon twin setup which must be changed if you want to use it solo to prevent damaging the diaphragm from overexcursion.
I'd say...it depends on your market and what you do. I've used them for mold mitigation leads and we generated about $75K in biz in a year. Roof cleaning...a bit more spotty but it did bring a good ROI. In a large marketplace, I'd avoid and try to get your website in front of more eyeballs and in front of decision makers...which you should do anyways.
Pool pumps need highly positive pressure to run. They literally have to be pressurized or they won't draw. Trying to get one to draw up an 8 ft pipe past a check valve is probably not going to work. They won't even pull from a 55 gallon drum off a check valved draw tube. Been there...done that. He doesn't have air on his trucks. All electric pumps.
Do you have single phase power? If so and you have a 50 amp 230v circuit you can get a single phase compressor that will still deliver a goodly amount of CFM. Something like this: Eaton 7.5 HP Single Phase Compressor. Otherwise...you *could* get two of the Eaton gas powered compressors, plumb them together with a shared air tank and check valves. That would give you 40 CFM of air. Problem is, you'd be running them for only short periods of time and the engines won't be happy after a time.
Yes. We can do a manifoldness design with the high pressure Super Swivel. Sold a few of them for guys who are DSing high strength SH. The swivel IS going to be stainless because pressure...but there is no manifold to rot out.
Her is the reality on the air diaphragm pumps...they don't really change. The ARO pumps you have...they are probably a 6661A-344c. They have been making that exact same pump for 25+ years. Same manifolds, same diaphragms, same air end valve. If I sent you a 20 year old ARO, you could take the air end kit out of it, pop it in your current pumps and they would work perfectly. The Husky 1040 had a long run and tons of them are out there. The current clones being sold on EBay are Husky pumps...Husky changed to a different design in the 1050 to increase their output and the OEMS just sell them under their own name. The parts are all sourced from the same Chinese manufacturers as they have always been...whether you buy a Husky or ARO. The whole idea of "off brand parts" is malarkey. They all come from the same Chinese sources. I have about ten of those Husky 1040 pumps out in the field with no problems. As for the air end being difficult...hell, that is one of the easiest air ends there is to rebuild. I can do one in 10 minutes. Wait until you do the ARO. You have to pull the pump down to zero to change the pilot valve.
I rebuilt more pumps than most pump shops will ever see. The only reason I don't do it actively anymore is because a lot of the manufacturers like Yamada are trying to push new pump sales by requiring very large repair parts orders, so my parts margins shrunk massively and I just couldn't afford to stock that many kits with the low margins I was making. Plus I had a ton of demand for complete skids and custom builds. I'll cover the shipping for the repair. If it just needs an air end kit, I have them in stock. Also have diaphragms.
Ironically enough, you got a Husky 1040...same pumps as you find on Ebay in clone form. And parts *are* readily available for that pump, not sure why the local shops told you otherwise unless they just wanted to sell you a new pump. Send it over and let me take a look at it. Typically the only reason you get leaks is because of a diaphragm issue unless the manifolds were damaged. Hell, I probably have them in stock and would have warranted it for you.
I don't think Ted runs air on his trucks. He is all electric on his rigs last time I checked. He hasn't yet been brought over to the Dark Side. And for doing constant high volume 12.5% SH transfers in a high volume operation like he has, paying the little big extra for a more efficient Kynar pump makes sense. Ive got a 1" ARO Kynar with a brand new center air section for $499 that will easily outpump and outlast one of the 1" Chinese pumps (typically QBY's) you see on Ebay that are Husky 1040 clones and usually have Santoprene diaphragms. Santoprene is fine for running 4% solutions, but it will get stiff and start to go away if you do a lot of high % transfers with it. Teflon or Viton are better bets.